The hair blueprint our ancestors left behind

Verona White delves into the beauty, culture and historical meaning of Black hair styles

As a young girl growing up in Birmingham, I was always fascinated by hair. I was surrounded by friends with straight and wavy hair, yet mine behaved so differently. At the time, I didn’t fully understand why. Like many young Black girls, I spent more time trying to manage my hair than appreciating it. Looking back now, I realise I wasn’t simply learning about hair; I was beginning a journey that would eventually become my life’s work. 

Thirty-five years later, I still find myself asking questions. As my knowledge has grown, so has my curiosity about where our hair journey truly began. When I look back at African history, I am constantly amazed by the creativity and wisdom of our ancestors. How did they create such intricate hairstyles without electric clippers, ceramic straighteners, heated brushes or the endless range of products we have today? Their skill wasn’t built on technology but on knowledge, observation and experience, passed from one generation to the next.

One hairstyle that continues to fascinate me is the cornrow. Today, it is celebrated on fashion runways, in salons and by celebrities across the world, but its story stretches back thousands of years. Cornrows were never simply a hairstyle. They were practical, protective and purposeful. They helped reduce daily manipulation, retain moisture and keep tightly coiled hair healthy. In many African communities, the patterns could represent family, tribe, age, marital status or social standing. Hair became a language, telling stories before a single word was spoken. 

As a hairstylist, this speaks to me, because one lesson has remained true throughout my career: every hairstyle begins with a blueprint. Whether I am creating cornrows, twists, locs, a silk press, extensions or a bespoke wig, success always starts with understanding the foundation. Great hairdressing is not simply about producing a beautiful finish; it is about respecting the structure beneath it. Our ancestors understood that principle centuries before modern hair education gave it a name. 

Another symbol that has always fascinated me is the Afro comb. More than just a styling tool, it became an emblem of confidence, identity and pride. Designed with long teeth to lift and shape natural Afro hair without crushing its texture, the Afro comb celebrated hair in its natural state rather than trying to change it. To me, it represents far more than grooming; it represents a generation that embraced its heritage with confidence and encouraged others to do the same. 

Black history is filled with remarkable pioneers whose influence still shapes our industry today. Annie Turnbo Malone developed specialist haircare products for textured hair. Madam CJ Walker became one of America’s first self-made female millionaires, transforming Black haircare through products, education and entrepreneurship. Although she did not invent the hot comb, she helped popularise professional haircare and empowered thousands of Black women to build successful businesses. Marjorie (née Stewart) Joyner later revolutionised hairstyling with her permanent waving machine, proving that Black innovation has always driven our profession forward. 

Today, our tool kits include ceramic straighteners, precision clippers, steamers, scalp scanners and advanced trichology equipment. While technology has transformed our profession, I often wonder whether we sometimes rely more on the tools than the knowledge behind them. Our ancestors achieved incredible results without sophisticated equipment because they understood the hair they were working with. They respected it, protected it and worked with its natural texture instead of against it. 

As someone who now spends much of her time educating others about scalp health, I believe that lesson is more important than ever. We often become so focused on achieving the latest hairstyle that we overlook the very thing supporting every style: the scalp. Healthy hair doesn’t begin with the latest product or trend; it begins with understanding the foundation. 

Black History Month gives us the opportunity to celebrate far more than beautiful hairstyles. It allows us to honour the innovators, educators and entrepreneurs who transformed our industry while preserving traditions that have existed for centuries.

As I celebrate 35 years in the hair industry, I feel privileged to continue learning from the blueprint our ancestors left behind. Every client I meet, every student I teach and every article I write is influenced by their wisdom. They gave us more than hairstyles. They gave us resilience, innovation, creativity and pride. Trends will continue to change, and new technology will continue to emerge, but one truth will always remain. Every great hairstyle starts with a blueprint, and our heritage is one of the greatest gifts we can pass on to future generations.

Verona White will be a guest speaker at BHM event, ‘Hair, Roots & Culture’ at Brasshouse Community Centre, Birmingham on October 30. Search Eventbrite for tickets.  

VERONA WHITE

Hair stylist, wig technician, author and educator.

Follow on Instagram @afrohairgrowthchallenge