Understanding, protecting and celebrating Black skin

Dr Jacky McLeod provides in-depth insight into the beauty of Black skin and how to deal with skin issues

It may come as a surprise to know that your skin is your body’s largest organ. It forms a vital barrier against germs and environmental irritants; allows you to sense and respond to the world around you; helps regulate your body temperature; and, when exposed to sunlight, enables your body to manufacture vitamin D, which is essential for healthy bones and teeth.

Melanin: Your superpower!
Melanin is the pigment that gives your skin its colour and provides natural protection against harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun. It also has antioxidant properties that help protect your skin from environmental stressors. Melanin-rich skin is generally more resistant to sunburn and some visible signs of premature ageing, including freckles, fine lines and wrinkles – helping Black skin stay smooth, healthy and youthful for longer.

Black under attack!
Your natural skin tone does not need correcting; however, advertising, media, music and entertainment can all reinforce the message that lighter skin is more desirable and linked to opportunity, status or success. Growing up with these messages can make skin-lightening seem ‘normal’. What starts as an attempt to fade dark spots or ‘even out’ skin tone can lead to stronger and more harmful treatments, causing skin problems that affect confidence, self-esteem and emotional well-being.

Hidden risks of skin-lightening products
Skin-lightening creams offer no health benefits but can cause serious harm. They reduce melanin – your skin’s natural protection – leaving it more fragile and vulnerable to damage, premature ageing and skin cancer.

• Unregulated products sold illegally online, in shops or on market stalls can be particularly risky because ingredients may not be clearly stated. Some have been found to contain mercury, hydroquinone or very strong steroids – substances that can pass through the skin into the bloodstream and adversely affect internal organs or a pregnancy.
• Mercury is highly toxic and banned from cosmetic products in the UK. Repeated application can seriously damage the kidneys, brain and nervous system.
• Hydroquinone is a prescription-only medicine that should only be used under medical supervision. Incorrect use can cause severe irritation and lasting blue-black or grey discolouration of the skin.
• Very strong steroids,such as clobetasol, are also prescription-only medicines. Incorrect or prolonged use can cause skin thinning, stretch marks, aggressive acne, redness and poor wound healing, and also contribute to long-term health problems, such as high blood pressure, diabetes and weight gain.

Dark spots and patches (hyperpigmentation)
Darker skin can be more susceptible to hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone. Even minor inflammation or injury, such as an insect bite, acne spot, eczema flare-up or irritation from a skincare or haircare product, can stimulate the skin to produce additional melanin, leaving a dark mark behind.

The encouraging news is that most marks gradually fade as the skin naturally renews itself; however, this can take several months, so patience is essential. Trying to speed things up with harsh treatments often makes matters worse. Scrubbing, rubbing, scratching and picking can further traumatise the skin, potentially causing deeper pigmentation, infection or scarring. Instead, treat your skin gently. Use a fragrance-free soap substitute, apply it with your fingertips, rinse carefully and pat dry. Moisturise regularly to reduce dryness and soothe itching. Avoid products that can irritate your skin, like bubble baths, shower gels and biological detergents.

Do not assume that a product is safe simply because it is labelled “natural”. Plant-based and botanical ingredients can still cause irritation, allergic reactions or pigmentation changes.Instead, ‘patch-test’ it on a small, hidden area of your skin, such as behind your ear or the inner bend of your elbow, before considering applying it to your face or body.

For many people, concealers and colour correction can provide an immediate, low-risk way to create a more even appearance and make a meaningful difference to their confidence and well-being, whilst underlying pigmentation issues improve. However, if you are concerned about persistent or altered pigmentation, consult your GP. For accurate diagnosis of conditions, such as melasma, vitiligo or lupus, a dermatology referral is important, as this provides access to a prescription-strength treatment plan that can be safely administered; long-lasting skin camouflage matched to your skin tone; and psychological support, if necessary.

Protect your superpower
Melanin provides valuable natural protection, but it cannot block all UV radiation. Strong sunshine can darken existing pigmentation and contribute to new age-related spots, so practise sun safety and top up your natural protection with a broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or above, with 5-star UVA protection. A tinted sunscreen containing iron oxides can provide additional protection against light-induced pigmentation.

Your skin is working for you every day, and your melanin is an important part of that natural protection. Rather than trying to change your natural skin tone, focus on keeping your skin healthy, comfortable and protected. Treat it gently, give it time to heal and seek professional advice when you need it.

Black is beautiful whatever your skin tone. Love the skin you are in, celebrate it… and pass that confidence on to the next generation!

Dr JACKY McLEOD
Senior GP, educator and Chair of Gratitude Initiative